Coastal stories…
Before the east wind comes
Before the east wind came, before the onshore turned the swell to chop, children and adults were out on the long, consistent waves of energy crashing onto Bombo Beach.
They rode the final moment of waves generated by far winds and distant storms. Sweeping in from the open ocean, the rolling coils of energy met the shallows and rose to a peak, then crashed in a confusion of foamy whitewater that momentarily swallowed those skimming across their glassy walls.
This is how it is along our coastline. It is how it is in the south-east that is exposed to the wide, surging sea.
According to the Australian Bureau of Statistic there are maybe 1.5 million on the search for the long glassy swell. It’s far too seldom for those trapped by excessive work hours or family commitments. It is not enough for others out there every chance they get summer or winter, early morning or as the sun sinks below a watery western horizon.
Returning from the surging swells here at Bombo, two children rinse their boards and wash the salt from themselves under the cold water shower. It is an everyday scene along that part of our coast blessed by being exposed to the open ocean.
So it was this day, before the east wind came.
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